March 21

March 21st 2002

We arrive at Angkor Wat at 6am in time to watch the sunrise from behind the temple. {For those who have seen it - this is the location where Tomb Raider was filmed, learned this courtesy of Fin} We sat by the waters edge in silence watching in awe as the huge red ball slowly appeared from behind the largest and most magnificent temple in the world. Such an incredibly breathtaking sight it was almost spiritual - only marred by obnoxious Americans who parked their ignorant butts beside us and jabbered nonsense - as is their want - till we could stand no more and moved back out of earshot - this was such a special sight, the atmosphere was ruined by these fools! We break our fast at one of the cafes a few hundred yards back down the road, then set off to explore. On our walk back we are behind the Buddhist Monk's residence, I ask Fin what the large domed blocks in their grounds are. They are called Stupas, and are sacred burial mounds.

Angkor Wat is the most famous and least damaged of all the temples here. The walled area of this temple is over 2 miles long and the entire area is surrounded by a moat. As we walk across the bridge, which is lined with ancient statues, towards it, we notice people in the river. Fin tells us they are clearing the moss from the water. They collect it in large containers, they all seem to be thoroughly enjoying this strange occupation and are laughing and chatting as they work.

Angkor Wat has a large tower in each corner and a huge central tower. We wandered round exploring for a couple of hours. The long corridors are all lined with carvings all telling stories, in some areas the stones have a polished look turning them black and red. This effect has been caused by people touching the walls over the years. Fin can "read " the stories on the walls and translates them for us. There are statues of the ancient Kings and Buddha's everywhere. It's time for a loo again so I miss the steep steps that the others climb. They continue to the top and I can't get passed the guard to return so have to wait at a cafe for them. The men say that was so steep that they got vertigo coming back down. Back at the parking area there are always people waiting to sell their wares, and often people following you around determined not to leave you till you buy something from them! We haggle for a VCD of the Angkor Wat Temple area we settle a price and have one each. We buy a hat like mine for Fiona too. Back once more to hotel for lunch and imodium, then resume our tour at 2.30pm.

We approach the Bayon Wat and it's Palace from the South Gate where we all get out to walk up to the Gate with it's two massive 3 headed elephants guarding the gateway. {Pete and Glenn stop to buy a pointed straw hat each, they both look really cute in them.} The walls surrounding this whole area are covered in carvings depicting monkeys, ancient tribes and nose to tail elephants. This is the one that Andrew and I both think is the loveliest of them all, we have passed it the last few days and have been looking forward to seeing it close up. This place is wonderful, it has a peacefulness and tranquillity beyond the other temples, I could sit here for days just soaking up the atmosphere. We explore the whole area, bricks are being numbered here too, the restoration has begun already. I take some vid. of the workmen, apparently they should finish restoration in 2005. I need to come back, there are pictures of what this Wat looked like before it was desecrated and I really must see it.

Andrew and I walk across to the huge Buddha alongside the temple, I've wanted a closer look at him too, I love the serene beautiful faces of these Buddha's. I offer him some incense that one of the monks hands me and sit for a little while with him. We join the others at the palace ruins for a walk around. Then on the way back spotted a group of monkeys and asked Po Lee to stop. We all got out and watched them, took some vid. and pix. Two of them had tiny babies, they were totally unafraid of us and we watched some people feeding them lychees which they peeled and ate with astonishing speed. One of them was jumping up trying to grab Fin's mobile phone, a lovely little interlude. I wonder how long it will take for them to start avoiding the tourists?

Cambodia has relatively few tourist so far, we are both so glad that we came here now while it is still peaceful and the wildlife is unafraid. You can climb up to explore all the temples. In a few years time people probably won't be allowed the freedom we have enjoyed, and the place will be over run with MacDonald's and other junk food places. Took vid. on the way back of 2 pigs on a motorbike, now there's something you don't see too often! Some people put leaves over their pigs to stop them getting sun burned tummies on the way home from market.

We went to a Chinese restaurant tonight, a really good meal - yummy dumplings. Headed for Angkor What? the bar the lads found yesterday, excellent cocktails and chasers too. Run by a nice Aussie from Perth. Jonathan and I chatted all evening as we tried most of the cocktails on the menu.