March 18th 2002
We are up early and out at 9am heading for the National Museum where Pohn
took us around and explained the history of the statues and the Post Angkorean
Buddha's in here, lots of statues of Ganeche and the half man half monkey.
The building is gorgeous pink sandstone with lovely gardens and a pond with
amazing huge waterlilies. As before we were given lotus blossoms and incense to
offer to Buddha and to the statues of the ancient kings.
From there we travelled to the Russian market where we arranged to meet up in
a couple of hours and went off to browse at our own pace. We bought a couple of
pairs of trousers for Andrew, trousers, shirt and caftan for me. Haggled for a
lovely turquoise pendant, a silver elephant box, and a silver hair clip. Then
back to the hotel for baguettes for lunch.
This afternoon we go to the Genocide Museum, this is the bit I've been
dreading. It was even more horrific than I imagined, Pohn {in mid 30's} remembers it
all too clearly. This museum is the former S21 prison, you can still
see the blood stains on the tiles. There are photographs of the Killing Fields
and of the cremation of the skulls found in the fields years later. Photo's of people
before and after torture. Some of the torture instruments are still here with
descriptions and pictures of how they were used. Pictures and paintings done by
survivors show the terrible decimation of the Cambodian people. There is
still a bust of Pol Pot here. Upstairs the prison cells are so small that Andrew
couldn't lie down in one. The women were put in cells with wooden doors. I walked around on my own for a while trying
to take in the fact that this only happened in the 70's, how can such atrocities
still be allowed to happen in our world? I remember clearly reading about it and
watching on TV, but nothing really brings it home to you like seeing this awful place. The Cambodians are still trying desperately to recover, and
yet are all such friendly, smiley happy people, so pleased to see you and so
eager to help in any way they can. Pohn says that they just have to live for
today, if they try to bring those of the Khmer Rouge still free to justice it
would cause war again. So forgive and let live seems to be their way forward. I
feel ashamed that I didn't know the half of their suffering, it's too easy not
to think closely about things because they are so far away.
We decided that we all needed a drink and a lightening of mood en route to
the hotel, so called in at the Elephant Bar of the
Royal Hotel which is owned by
Raffles. One of my dreams is to have a
Singapore Sling in Raffles - so maybe
this is close enough? It's happy hour so 2 drinks for 1 - we indulge! Rounds of various beers and cocktails are ordered as we sit in the hushed and
quite stately room. Singapore Sling and the Elephant bar special, delectable mixture
of rum, coconut, passion fruit, cr�me de bananes and lime served in an elephant
goblet. Peter joins me in the latter and we all relax as the drinks and
atmosphere unwind us.
On our way back to the hotel I asked Pohn about the lovely
Monument we passed en route. It is a stunning red stone edifice set in the
Jardin Publique. It was build by the people to commemorate peace in Cambodia.
When we passed it later in the evening it was floodlit in red and purple and
looked even more beautiful.
We go to the usual cafe for dinner, followed by a stroll
to a couple of bars for some more cocktails. We are all comfortable together now
and chat in various groups till 11pm. Jonathan and I have spent a fair amount of
time talking and get on really well, I find him so interesting to chat to, he
has been to so many places and lived in many countries already.
