March 19

March 19th 2002

We are up at 5.30am and on our way by 6.10am to the boat, which takes us down the river and across Tonle Sap Lake, which is the largest in Cambodia. This boat is large and vibrates till you can't feel your feet anymore and stinks as it leaves a trail of black smoke pouring in it's wake. Inside people are packed like sardines and we opt for the "air" outside. We got grounded on a sand bank part way across the lake. Wi says this has never happened in any of her previous trips. We resumed our journey 25 minutes later after lots of revving and weaving wildly to one side on several occasions, rather frightening till the crew jumped in to free her and we realised that the water only came up to their waists! Thought that we had arrived at 1.20pm but no, it was time to transfer to a smaller boat to go further up river to Siem Reap. This new part of journey made the first part seem fresh and airy as we travelled up what smelled and looked like a sewer, made more interesting by the dead fish floating gently on the surface. Had all our men in stitches laughing as I videoed these wonders, unaware of a larger boat approaching and almost fell backwards overboard as the wake from it hit us! Wi grabbed me and saved the camera and I from disease and corrosion - bless her.

At journeys end we clambered across to land and walked to the minibus through more waves of dead fish. A roller coaster drive {with Po Lee, our new driver and Fin our guide for Siem Reap} followed, as the road has been washed away by floods, we arrived safely at Bakong Hotel 001 about 2pm. Time for a quick shower then late lunch, Wi had provided us with a picnic breakfast on the boat so we hadn't starved. Back in our bedroom a strangely familiar smell assails our nostrils - DEAD FISH - OH NOOOO! A scout around reveals that our boots and all luggage need a good hose down! Wi tells us that it is safe to leave our passports etc. in our rooms while we are here, she has advised the hotel safe everywhere else so this is a bonus.

At 4pm we set off to the first of the Temples we will visit over the next few days at Angkor Wat. We stop at the Gate to The Temples where Fin arranges a three day pass visa for the group, we had to produce passport photo's for these.

Ta Pronm is vast and lovely and straight out of "Raiders of the Lost Ark." We walked around the ruins for over 2 hours, this place has a wonderful atmosphere. Some trees have grown in the ruins and they balance precariously on top with their roots streaming down and around the walls. Saw some peach faced love birds in the Kapok trees, lovely to see them in their natural habitat. All the men taking pix , I left the vid. recharging in our bedroom. Wi has lent me her binoculars to bird watch instead.

Back at base I asked one of the tiny girls at reception if we could have some hangers for clothes as we stay here for 5 days and there is not even a drawer in the room. She seemed confused but said she would come up soon and indicated to me to wait in our room for her. We have a Gecko living in our bedroom here, he is only about 3" long and very cute, he ran into one of Andrew's socks earlier and had to be shooed out so the laundry could be done. Approx. 10 minutes later our girl knocked, Andrew opened the door and 4 tiny girls struggled in carrying a small wardrobe for us! How bizarre, we couldn't believe our eyes, I wish I'd had the vid. going. They set up the wardrobe, giggling and bowed their way out of the room. Strange prioritisation that we have a TV and a fridge full of beer and water, but no lamp or wardrobe.

Dinner is at 7;30pm so we set off to the Soup Dragon - really excellent dinner - my favourite place so far! Wi points out that she didn't order any fish, we all agree wholeheartedly that this is an excellent idea! We order beer and try their special lime daiquiri's later. Regale the lads with our story about the wardrobe. Retire to bed about 10pm. exhausted from our long day, the lads however decide on a nightcap first. A dreadful night, air con. is not doing much, traffic noise is dreadful and the bar across the road sounds like it has an Indian snake charmer whistling at top volume! Our "alarm knock" is at 6.15am and I really need to sleep.